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New York Fashion Week 2020

Boulevard of broken dreams

Martin Veit
R13 Fashion Show in New York
R13 Fashion Show in New York

Fewer labels, fewer concrete trends, fewer visitors: New York Fashion Week is fragmented in terms of presentation formats, seasons and trends on the catwalk.

This text was originally published in German and machine-translated into English.

Half time at the New York shows, time for a first conclusion. More and more brands are saying goodbye to the traditional runway and inviting off-site presentations instead. The trend of See now/buy now events, which successfully celebrated their kick-off a few seasons ago, is also continuing. Among them is Tommy Hilfiger, who will not only show the spring/summer line on February 16, but also present the latest collaboration with Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton, Tommy x Lewis.

Parallel to this, the contrast between the catwalk looks and the streetwear outfits is blurring. It is no longer a question of clearly defined trends, but rather the expression of a certain attitude and aesthetic, which a designer perfects in the best case for every mood of his customers.

A master of this art is Tom Ford, who showed his fall collection not in New York but on Friday evening with a view to the Oscars in Los Angeles - a nuisance for New York designers. His aesthetics have now evolved from the raw sex appeal of his time at Gucci to a relaxed sensuality. Ford's inspiration: a photo of Baron Alexis De Waldner and Donna Mitchell, in which Alexis holds a cigarette or joint to Donna's mouth. "I love this picture," Ford says. "It's moody, it's chic, it's possibly a little high, and it's very sensual..." This attitude towards life should also be reflected in his collection. Ford's casual batik tops with flowing train fit perfectly on a stylish Beverly Hills pool, while his figure-hugging evening gowns cut a fine figure on any red carpet.

New York Fashion Week 2020: Ulla Johnson

Brandon Maxwell, who also makes waving capes in black suitable for New York City, is sticking to his minimalist signature with timeless Tayloring, whereby elaborate materials refine the looks. Artistic designer Tory Burch showed her very feminine autumn collection at the Sothebys auction house. Ulla Johnson has skilfully transferred her always well-discussed feminine looks with romantic flounces and sexy gatherings to knit and outerwear, while R13 has adapted his workwear with military influences, denim and leather for urban survivalists - and U2 fans.

New York Fashion Week 2020: Jonathan Cohen

With newcomer Jonathan Cohen, who has dealt with his Mexican heritage and history in past collections, it becomes philosophical. He compares human development to a rose that begins as a closed bud and blossoms into a flower. In his very lively collection, all designs are therefore based on roses - hand-painted, machine embroidered, as jacquards and on pinstripes.

New York Fashion Week 2020: R13