Pitti Uomo: The fashionable lightning analysis

This text was originally published in German and machine-translated into English.

A visit to Pitti Uomo means once again information processing. A lot of input, new looks and innovations. One of these is certainly the effort of some brands to find new filling materials in the jacket sector. The unstoppable trend in puffer jackets in particular, spurred on by increased discussions on the mega-topic of sustainability.

A solution in this respect could be the use of recycled down, as used by the Replumè label, which made its debut at the fair. It belongs to the same company as the Paltò line, which is more known for coats. Overall, the outerwear styles in the jacket segment are becoming cleaner and are increasingly showing themselves without fur details. Others, on the other hand, are completely without animal fillings, including another debutant: Michael Michalsky was represented for the first time under his creative leadership with the Swiss sportswear label Jet Set after the relaunch. He says: Under me there is no fur in the collection and no goose down. Instead, he relies on Primaloft. These two names exemplify a development and discussion that is being conducted with a particular focus on outerwear ranges. It is not only the appearance that is decisive, but also the material and origin of the products and ingredients. In addition to the omnipresent hype about sportswear and lifestyle looks, brands in particular want to create new drive with heritage in the ready-made. The trade fair organisers also tried to put modern tailoring back on the agenda. For example, a fashion show entitled "Otherwise Formal" was held in the main square at the Fortezza da Basso. The looks, which were based on products from various exhibitors, ranged from classic silhouettes to broken suits and volumes. Whether they will also find their way into the product ranges will become apparent in the coming weeks when the order books are closed. They always provide inspiration.

Sure, knitting is a classic winter theme. But currently the topic seems to be gaining momentum once again. This was not only shown by the TW survey among numerous buyers on their order favourites for autumn 2020, in which knitwear styles dominate the top ten. In Florence, too, knitwear is a trend-setter, evident in all its varieties from pullovers to turtlenecks to cardigans. Last but not least, jacket and coat makers use knitwear to turn classics into cosy. As a counter-trend, at least in optical terms, to the cosy knitwear man, brands and designers are focusing on workwear. Particularly visible in lumberjack patterns on over-jackets and shirts or over patch flap pockets in the trouser area. The skilful play with material and colour sometimes takes the sharpness out of the workwear look, sometimes it lends it even more.

You can read the detailed analysis on the top themes in the premium and luxury menswear market, on the most important shows and events from Milan and Florence in the e-paper on Wednesday, 15 January from 5 p.m. and in the printed edition on 16 January.